Cabinet

Wiring

May 24th, 2015

Another physical issue to work out is the wiring which will mainly be concealed. The hard cardboard boxes I use have a recess area around 7mm at the back which is enough to hold the wires. The folding on the back allows a power cable to come out.

Here’s a working model of how the wiring may work:

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The LEDs are positioned on the backing/ background sheet. Their pins go through the background sheet, the back of the casing, and the recess cardboard  (through pre-made holes in the correct positions).

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The main power cable goes through the gap between the foldings at the bottom corner of the box.

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Wiring are connected on the back of the recess board. LEDs are connected by their pins or additional wires (soldered). I decided against using perforated breadboards as these would complicate the positioning of the LEDs and their wiring. Going through 3 layers of cards should secure the LEDs in place. Although I am considering the use of conductive tape in the case of more complicated wiring (such as when the components need to come from the sides as well as the back).

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The different elements in the diorama are usually positioned using wires onto the backing sheet/ background. Some other elements can also come from the sides. Together with the casing and the recess card, these will fit back into the box.

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This shows a view of the different layers pulled out.

While this set-up would work for  just LEDs and minimal  wiring, some boxes would require an arduino and the height of the board I am working with exceeds the depth of the recess area. So back to the drawing board with those ones.

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For the ‘human blood corpuscles’ diorama, I will be using an arduino to control 3 pulsating red LEDs.

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